Many people view pest in the garden as one of the worst things in the world, as soon as insects are spotted they go running for the pest aside. This is probably the biggest mistake anyone can make and you should never head for the poison. There will always be insects and they will always be in your garden and if you spray them you will be doing more harm. The problem with pesticides is that they do not just target the bad insects but harm the good insects as well. On average in most vegetable gardens 3% of the insects cause damage to the plants that means that 97% of the insects in your garden are beneficial. At this ratio the good insects far out weigh the bad and can keep the problem insects under control. When you go out and spray now you are killing off a bunch of beneficial insects and that throws the whole ecology of the garden off.

Many times we do more harm to the plant than pest do. A healthy vigorous plant is far less susceptible to damage or attach than an unhealthy plant. To insure your plants are healthy you must provide them with the proper requirements. If a plant is labeled for full sun than that is where you should plant it. If a plant does best in a dry area than that is what you need to provide. By matching a plants requirements to where you grow the plant half of your battle is over. If a plant is not receiving the right amount of it’s requirements it will be under stress and actually draw pest to it.

Many commercial greenhouses and nursery operations have actually started getting away from using pesticides all together and are using strictly biological controls when it comes to managing pest. This is not just the idea of purchasing and releasing beneficial insects into the nursery but to actually plant host and food plants for these insects as well. The problem with insects is that they will move to where ever their food is. If you can provide a spot where they will have food and a place to reproduce then they will stick around and keep your plants clear of the bad insects. These commercial growers are actually growing crops now that provide food and shelter for these predatory insects as well as their money crops. Now these growers are not only saving money by not having to spend on pest control they are actually helping the environment as well. I recently saw a television program where they were showing a retention pond that use to be just a large hole filled with water but now is full of plant, fish and insects because there is no longer pesticide runoff going in it. It was truly amazing at the transformation in just 4 years.

If commercial growers are seeing the benefits of using natural pest control and proper sanitation and growing conditions then this must be the real deal as their livelihoods are dependent upon growing healthy crops. So instead of reaching for a can of bug spray the next time you see a bug maybe it is time to grab a book on beneficial insects and how to help them inhabit your garden.

Whatever home remodeling project you have decided to handle, choosing the right tools can be a tremendous help with diy project of yours.

This month we are looking at air tools that come really handy.

Compressed air-powered fasteners can dramatically decrease the amount of time you spend on a bathroom remodeling or home repairs. Many tools will fire fasteners as fast as you can pull the trigger. Most air nailers require a 1/2 to 1 hp compressor with tank capacity of at least 3 gallons of air. Smaller air nailers and staplers usually run on 2 to 5 cubic feet per minute (cfm) or air volume at a pressure of 70 to 90 pounds per square inch (psi).
Larger framing nailers can require as much as 9 cfm and 100 to 120 psi.

If you already own a compressor, check to make sure it is able to drive new air tools before purchasing them. When working with air powered fasteners, it is essential to wear approved safety goggles and ear protection. Familiarize yourself with the operation of the tool before beginning to work. A device that can send a nail deep into a 2×4 can do a great deal of harm to a human body and cause injuries if you are not careful.

Note: Recently, a similar tool to air nailers, the cordless power nailer, has become available for home use or for rental. (see description below)

So here are the most popular air tools to help you with home repair projects:

Pneumatic staplers:
Air-powered staplers can drive crown-style staples from 1/4 to 1/2 in. wide, and up to 2 in. long. Smaller staplers are useful for installing carpeting, roofing felt, floor underlayment and insulation. Larger capacity staplers can attach fence boards, strip flooring and even roof decking (check with your local building codes first).

Framing nailers:
The “big boy” of air-powered fasteners, these powerful, high capacity tools will drive nails up to 3 1/2 in. long for all types of frame construction. The magazine can hold upwards of 100 nails.

Pin nailers:
Drive brads up to 1 1/4 in. long. Used to attach trim, carpet strips and moldings. This lightweight tool allows you to nail one-handed, a real help when aligning trim molding pieces.

Finish nailer:
Drives finish nails from 3/4 to 2 in. long. Useful for installing flooring, siding, door installation and window casing, as well as most types of finish carpentry.

Cordless power nailer:
Relies on battery power and disposable fuel cells to power-drive nails. Also called “impulsive nailers”. Cordless power nailer requires special fasteners, generally 16 gauge, from 1 1/2 to 3 1/4 in. long, depending on the model. Each fuel cell will drive from 1200 to 2500 nails, depending on length, and a single battery charge will drive up to 4000 nails.

You don’t have to be rich anymore to own a pool. Today more than 6 million American families enjoy the fun of a backyard swimming pool and the numbers are growing every day. However, cleaning a pool isn’t such a fun task. If you have a little know-how, swimming pool maintenance can be easier than ever.

Here’s what the experts say about outdoor swimming pool cleaning:

# The key to easy pool maintenance is to keep it clean all the year round. It is much easier and less expensive than spending money killing algae with expensive pool chemicals.

# Keep your filter running. The recommended time is at least 12 hours a day , or longer if the water appears cloudy.

# Check the swimming pool pump regularly. It is important to backwash when it reaches between 5 to 8 PSI normal.

# Clean your skimmer as often as possible. This is especially important after a rainstorm because trees usually drop leaves and seepods which end up in your pool.

# Following a rainstorm, “shock” your pool with cleaning agents. Leaves and debris can introduce airborne algae which will soon begin to grow in your pool.

# “Shock your pool with cleaning chemicals before and after pool party. Lots of swimmers mean lots of impurities, such as those found in suntan lotions, perspiration and perfumes.

# Vacuum manually at least once a week. A good cleaning can help prevent an algae outbreak. Also, brush down the sidewalls at least twice a month to loosen any debris and algae growth.

# Perform chlorine and pH tests daily. Check for alkalinity every week.

# The small of chlorine does not necessarily mean that your pool is over-chlorinated. Chlorine odor and eye irritation can actually mean there isn’t enough free and available chlorine in your swimming pool, so test your water before making any adjustments.

#Listen to your pool pump. A noisy pump can be a sign of trouble. Have someone check the bushings and bearings, and replace them as needed. Some pump parts eventually can be deteriorated by the chlorine and might need to be replaced.

Once you have confirmed that your basement leaks or otherwise collects water, your next task is to determine the source of water (consider a water leak test) and therefore identify potential corrective issues. It is usually the process of elimination, unless the source is obvious. In most cases, the source of the water is either groundwater coming in from below the house structure, or from rainwater and surface runoff. You also need to eliminate other potential sources.

Once such alternate source is condensation caused by inadequate ventilation. You can check this by taping a piece of aluminum foil to a wall and wait a few hours to see which side is fogged up. If the side exposed to the air is fogged, you know you have a condensation problem, which can usually be fixed by adding a portable refrigerated dehumidifier. Other potential sources include sewer and water line leaks, a leaky roof, and missing or deteriorated caulking around windows or exterior doors.

About 80% of all wet basement problems are caused by poor drainage around the house, either poor surface drainage or a poor groundwater handling system, or both.

Surface drainage problems are usually the easiest and least expensive to fix (but not always). You need to do a careful exterior house inspection and observe the slope of the lot, presence of low spots, built-up flower beds next to the house, and roof drainage system (or lack of thereof). As you walk around, ask yourself, “Where does the water go during a heavy rainfall?”

Roof gutters and downspouts are a frequent culprit in wet basement. The trick is to make sure that this water is directed away from house and not allowed to drain or pool next to the foundation. Gutters and downspouts are needed to collect the water – splash-blocks and sometimes subsurface drain lines are needed to carry the water down slope. This will depend on the slope of the lot, soil type, and adjacent topography.

Most lots are sloped to some extent and many have dramatic slopes. You want to make sure water drains away from the house perimeter. This is accomplished by a variety of methods, depending on the site conditions. Sometimes it is as simple as sloping the ground around the foundation so that water drains out and away. Construction plastic can be added to give it better protection. Subsurface drains or French drains can be used successfully in many instances if they are installed and maintained properly. On larger lots, a swale (artificial depression) can be built to direct surface water off-site.

If all of the surface runoff issues have been addressed and the basement still needs weatherproofing and waterproofing service as it still leaks, then you have either got a problem with the exterior foundation wall coating (if present) or a groundwater problem.